


| EQUIPMENT: |
| Aquarium |
| Canopy with light |
| Heater & Thermostat or Combination |
| Thermometer |
| Air Pump |
| Aquarium printed background |
| Washed Gravel |
| Selection of decorative rocks, plastic plants and driftwood |
| Two Airline "T" pieces |
| Two meters plastic airline tubing |
| Air diffuser stone |
| Two clamps (regulator) |
| Under gravel filter |
| Corner or Box filter or power filter |
| Filter charcoal |
| Filter Wool (polyester wadding) |
| Fish Net |
| Test Kits (Ph, Nitrate & Nitrite) |
| Plastic Basin |
| SETTING UP YOUR AQUARIUM |
Day 1
1. Wash aquarium, gravel and rocks thoroughly in fresh running water. NB!!! Never use soap or detergents when washing aquarium or accessories, as these are highly toxic to fish.
The gravel should be continually stirred and then drained, until water is clear and free from sand or debris. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Place the undergravel filter at the back of tank in the centre. Connect airline tubing to uplift.
2. Slope the gravel gently from back to front of aquarium, covering the undergravel filter. This allows dirt to collect in the front and makes it easier to clean. NB!!! Ensure that aquarium does not stand in direct sunlight, as this will encourage growth of algae.
3. Prepare your corner or box filter by placing a layer of filter wool (about 10mm) on the bottom grit in the filter. Half fill the filter with activate charcoal and then place a 20mm layer of filter wool on the charcoal. Fit the cover and airlift. Install thermostatic heater, below the level of the proposed water line; the thermometer, so that it can be read easily from the outside. Connect up the corner filter, under gravel filter and air stone airlines with the air pump. If a separate heater and thermostat is used, you are urged to read the manufacturers instructions carefully to ensure that the unit are connected correctly.
4. Add half the water, taking care to pour it slowly onto a saucer placed on the gravel, so as not to disturb the sand. Ensure that all new water added to the tank is immediately neutralised with a suitable water conditioning liquid, such as Pet Masters Water Prep, Cycle or Aquasafe.
Also add a living bacterial supplement for the biological filtering process. If your filter is not "seeded" with a living bacterial supplement you will have to wait for the Nitrogen Cycle to be completed ie. up to 36 days.
Day 2
5. Buy fresh plants and arrange them in your aquarium. Plant the roots under the gravel, taking care to cut off any excess growth, and making sure that the crowns remain exposed. Place the plants in such a way that, together with the rocks they allow the fish some hiding places and will also hide the filters, heater and airline.
6. Add the remainder of the water to the aquarium, and then turn on all equipment. Remember to treat the additional water with a conditioner. Check that the filters and airstone are working; fit the regulating clamp to either the airline supply to the filter or the air diffuser stone so that the air supply can be balanced. Make sure that the thermostatic heater is not overheating. You must check the temperature every few hours in order to see that it stabilises around 24° C. Fluctuations of 2 do not harm over a short period.
Water in a new aquarium can be milky for a day or two but this should disappear naturally. Check the Ph of the water (follow instructions on test kit), as it is important for setting up the water conditions necessary for maintaining and breeding tropical fish. A community tank is generally best at a Ph 6.8 to 7.0. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (Also see Nitrogen Cycle and Water Chemistry)
NOW WAIT TWO DAYS FOR WATER CONDITIONS TO STABLISE BEFORE ADDING FISH - KEEP CHECKING TEMPERATURE AND pH OF WATER
7. Add new fish on day 5 (if you did add a living bacterial supplement). . . . . . . . . . . . . . Go to adding new fish.